The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking | A review

I took quite a lot of time to think about how I felt about this book. Not because it isn't great, but because the authors, Lauren Stowell and Abby Cox, had a very clear role for this book to play in costumers libraries, and I was unsure of how this book would be received to those people who may not have the library the authors have. Until very recently, my only access to the works referred to in the Guide were from my university's library and snippets online, so I feared that these resources may be out of reach for many beginner costumes.

But at the heart of every review is the question "would I recommend this book?" and I have to say a very strong and enthusiastic YES  despite my aforementioned hesitation; however, my recommendation comes with a heavy caveat. To make the most out of this book I recommend having at least one other 18th-century book with grid patterns (either Janet Arnold or Norah Waugh) or be working from/ have access to existing patterns. The authors have said in many places that this is not a stand-alone book and it fits into existing literature, and as such one would not be able to make a gown with only this book.  Though I do think that this makes the book less accessible to beginners,  I think the authors accomplish what they set out to do with aplomb.

It is the subtitle of this book really captures what I think the authors succeeded most at and where the reader will learn the most: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them with Style. The detailed hand sewing instructions are wonderful and clear, as are the instructions on different stitches, and the patterns and styling notes for accessories make this book well worth the price of purchase. The accessories and styling notes alone make this book worth every penny.  I also really enjoyed that the authors encouraged the reader to get into the mindset of a mantuamaker, saving fabric where possible and not being to hung up on things that cannot be seen in the finished garment. They encourage the reader to "sew fearlessly," which I think is a wonderful mantra.

The book itself is gorgeous and seemingly well made. The typography and layout throughout are nice a clean. The pages are a good weight with a handsome semi-gloss, and I love that the book is bound free from the spine so that it can be opened flat without breaking the paper spine, or having the pages trying to close on you.

Left: 'Portrait of a Lady' by Francis Cotes, 1768.  Photo © Tate. CC-BY-NC-ND 3.0 Right: Abbey of American Dutchess, one of the authors, in her dress inspired by the portait on the left. Photo by American Duchess and taken from the blog. 

This is not to say that the book is flawless, there are some minor editing errors, and misnumbered instructions and pictures, but it does not hugely detract from the usefulness or enjoyment of the book. There are a few places where I longed for more information (a section on laces for example) but I think that I wanted more from the authors is a sign of how accessible and useful I found their writing rather than a flaw in and of itself. The authors did not leave me feeling as though I was missing a large amount of information, but only craving more detail and more of their down to earth approach to dressmaking.

Throughout the book I felt as though Lauren and Abby were the reader's cheerleaders, reassuring us that mistakes can be fixed and sewing is always a process. This encouragement and permission to make mistakes was a welcome tone for a book which simultaneously calls for rigorous research and strives for historical accuracy down to every stitch. A very careful balance which I think the authors achieved marvellously.

One of the book's less obvious strengths is not in the book at all, but the authors' engagement with the community online. Already we have received 2 official addendums to the book and Lauren and Abby have been easily accessible for questions and advice on their facebook page and blog. For correction on the cap pattern visit this blog post. For a full grided pattern of the Italian gown visit this blog post. And finally, for a blog post all about stays, check this out!

Overall this book would be an excellent addition to a budding or established library but does not stand alone.

Resources

• Portrait of Lady, from the Tate
• The American Duchess Guide: Behind the Scenes With The 1760s Sacque Gown 
• Buy the book on Amazon!