Wednesday 21 February 2018

Printed Cotton Ensemble | Planning and Research

I have been agonising over my first 18th-century ensemble for what feels like a year now. And I have finally decided on what to make. I am going to make a jacket and matching petticoat in printed cotton.

The runner-up was an Italian Gown, but I wanted something with some versatility, and I think that once I grow my 18th-closet, I can use the pieces of the matching ensemble with other garments. The Italian gown will have to wait, but I suspect not for long.

Research

Colonial Williamsburg, 1990-10,1 and 1990-10,2 | Women's Jacket and Petticoat, India Chintz. 

I am basing my ensemble off one of my favourite pieces in the Colonial Williamsburg Collection, but with some of my own modifications. I think I will make the petticoat precisely as it appear in the extant garment (but maybe with a longer flounce) but will make some small additions and changes to the jacket.

I will be making the jacket in the "baby Italian gown" style with the point low back waist seam and pleats, but I think 3/4" length sleeves will be more flattering on me (and that is my preferred sleeve length).  I will also add some small ruffles at the neckline and sleeves to add some extra texture and interest. I will have lots and lots of fabric for this project so I might as well use it.

In the extant garment, there are 4 back sections (2 each side) with the side seam coming round under the arm. I have draped this out on my form, and the fit is good, but I am considering moving the side seams closer to the back to create narrower back sections for some visual interest in the back, but I am unsure of how this will alter the fit of the garment.

I am going to tackle the petticoat first and think about the problem of the back panels for a while. Any advice would be much appreciated.

-Happy Sewing

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