Tutorial | 18th Century Petticoat

Making this darn thing was a serious act of hubris. I figured since I had made the stays with no problem and had sewed more complicated garments in the past, how hard could it be to make a pleated tube skirt? So with all the confidence in the world, I took a look at some extant pieces and just started hacking and smashing my way through only to redo this petticoat 3-4 times depending on how you count. Even after looking at some great resources such as American Duchess's Tutorial and the excellent how-to from Koshka the Cat, I still managed to muck it up. 

So I thought I would write a blog post, in the hopes you can learn from my mistakes, even though such blog posts did not stop my brazen ego.

In essence, an 18th C. petticoat is just two 50-60" (or 127-153 cm) wide rectangles of fabric (you can always use more but that is bare minimum) pleated and sewn together at the side. Easy! Right?

Measure twice, cut once

First, you will need a few measurements, and all of them should be taken with your undergarments on. This means shift, stays and false rump or pocket hoops.  

Measurements you will need:

• Waist Circumference
• Waist Center Front to Floor
• Waist Side to Floor
• Waist Center Back to Floor

I will use my measurements as an example. I was wearing my shift, stay, and bumroll.

• Waist: 25"
• CF to Floor: 41"
• Side to Floor: 44"
• Back to Floor: 43"

Now you need to decide how long you want your petticoat to be at the center front. I decided I wanted mine to be 4" from the ground so I could walk and move with ease. If you are going for a walking length gown you may want to make this even shorter. Once you have decided how far off the ground you want your hem to be, subtract that number from all your previous waist to floor measurements.

So for me, subtract 4" from my measurements =

• CF to floor: 37"
• Side to Floor: 40"
• Back to Floor: 39"

These will be the measurements of the final skirt length.  

Now we can begin cutting. You will be cutting two rectangles which are 50-60" (127-153 cm) wide and the length of your longest measurement +3", to accommodate the hem and adjustments for length. I used an old bed sheet for my petticoat, and so just used the existing hem. If you are doing something similar only add 1" to your longest measurement. 

One piece will be for the front and one for the back. Now at this point, you will want to hem the bottom edge of each piece. We will be adjusting the length at the waist so you can do a straight 1" hem along both pieces, turning them in by 1/2" to cover the raw edge.

Next, we will mark along the waist - this will be the raw edge - to adjust the length of the skirt. We are adjusting the length of the skirt from the waist, so you are going to make the adjustment at the top of your skirt panel.

Starting at the CF you will measure from the bottom up your CF measurement, in my case 37". Then do the sides with your side measurement, for me 40". To make everything even, I also marked the quarter point. Then draw a line out from the center to edges. Do the same for the back using your back measurements. You should have gentle "v" marked out on your fabric.

Pressing Pressing Pressing...

Next, starting from the center, fold the top of your fabric to the marked line, tuck in the raw edge so that they are encased and work your way to the edge. If you have a large difference between your CF and Side measurement - say for panniers - you may need to make a small slit at the center to ease the fabric. Press to keep the fold in place. You should now have a gentle "v"  or scoop shape along the top edge of both pieces of fabric. Leaving the length pressed in the center means you can make adjustments in the future.

You can see there that the roll get narrower at the end and wider towards the middle. 

Now you can begin pleating. If you like you can measure this out properly, The Mantua Diary has a great formula, but I went by feel rather than hard numbers. In the front, the knife pleat should go out from the waist with a box pleat at the center front, and in the back, the pleats should go in toward the center, with an inverted box pleat at the center. When doing my pleats, I pressed the top 3" or so just to keep them in place.

Once you have finished the pleats, quickly whip or blanket stitch the top edge to keep them secure. I use a blanket stitch and some button thread just to be extra sure. Your stitches do not have to be neat, it will be covered by your waistband.

If you have extra fabric you can make yourself a waistband or use folded ribbon or bias tape, your choice. I made a quick waistband and tacked some twill tape into the center for ties, then attached it to the skirt. Once you have completed both the front and the back pieces go ahead and sew them together at the side, leaving 8-10" at the top open so you can access your pockets if you like. 

And you're DONE! Phew.

Now you can twirl around in your living room to your heart's content.  You can see here that the petticoat has a nice even hem! Happily, these measurements work over both of my false rumps, but the trick is to make sure you take the measurement OVER your skirt supports so that when you are done that sides and back are not comically short.

Putting on your Petticoat

1. With all your appropriate undergarments on, step into your skirt with the back ties in your hand - remember the back side will be marked by the pleats going inward. Tie the ties at your front. 
2. Give the back a good fluff - most important step tbh - to make sure it is not caught on your bum.
3. Take the front ties and tie them behind you. If you like you can tuck in your ties under the waistband of the back section. 
4. Now that you are all suited up, make sure you can get into your pockets and you are good to go.

Resources

The Mantua Diary - Great Pleating formula

The Fashionable Frolick - Super Detailed Tutorial

Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion: Englishwomen's Dresses & Their Construction. New Ed.] ed. London: New York: Macmillan; Drama Book Publishers, 1977, 6.